An initial consultation is so commonly viewed by practitioners as simply getting the client over the line for treatment. Very few stop to consider the emotional, physical and financial barriers that have been overcome in order for that person to be standing in the reception area in the first place. Clients often divulge to me that they have picked up the phone many times to call, only to place it back on the hook, and procrastinate further. “I am being vain”, “I shouldn’t be spending money on myself”, “How can I tell someone what really bothers me”, “I should just age gracefully and stop being silly.” Sound familiar?

Just acknowledging that something about your appearance is affecting your life, let alone deciding to seek help about it, is an emotional upheaval. But taking control and making that appointment can be liberating and empowering, providing of course, you are in the right place. There is nothing more shattering than getting to that point where you are finally doing something just for yourself and getting some inexperienced, uninterested ‘professional’ giving you 20mins of her time, leaving you confused and disillusioned.

Are they charging you for a consultation? This is a hugely competitive industry now and most clinics lure you with the promise of a free consultation. In my experience, nothing really worthwhile is free and you get what you pay for. We charge a modest fee for our consultations. It is always an issue that is met with great surprise by other practitioners at conferences I speak at. My justification for this is simple. We value the advice we are giving our clients and they  value it too.

What you can expect from a skin consultation

Try to come to the consultation prepared. Do some research, like reading this blog or searching the web. There is a wealth of information at your fingertips now, so much so it creates confusion. Just get an understanding of the basics so you go into the consultation with some idea. It speeds up the process and you will get a better sense if something is not quite right.

Be really clear in your mind what it is that bothers you and be able to articulate it well. You will get more from the whole experience. Have already thought about what it is you want from the treatment,  how big a commitment to this you want to make and what you can afford.

If you are in the right place, the consultation should be with a qualified professional, in a room specifically for consultations and should take at least an hour. The practitioner should have read your consultation forms and be well aware of what your main concerns are, any previous treatments you may have had and any relevant medical history.

On that note, this is a good time to discuss the importance in having a medical professional such as a nurse or doctor perform your treatments. I have lost count of how many times I have had to call upon my medical experience and knowledge in determining whether a client’s medical history or medications prohibit or compromise their safety when having treatments. Even just being able to explain to a client that their arthritis medication will make them more light sensitive and more likely to experience complications is vital and is our duty of care as practitioners. It is so much more than just knowing how to perform a treatment: anyone can be taught that.

During your initial consultation, don’t be afraid to ask the credentials of the practitioner. If they are qualified, they certainly won’t mind and will appreciate why you have asked the question.

Do you like them! Is this someone that you could build rapport with and have confidence in, because more than likely, you will be seeing them frequently and will be placing a great deal of trust in their ability to chose the right treatments for you and then perform them. If the answer is no, look elsewhere. Don’t forget this is supposed to be fun!

Seeing what lies beneath

There are a number of imaging systems on the market such as Visia, Reveal and Beau Visage, and most of them are more than adequate. Your practitioner will be looking at your vascular and pigmentation damage as well as the UV damage. This is never good for your self esteem, in fact it can be down-right shattering, but it is better to know and can be a good wake up call to finally take care of your skin.

I can’t stress enough how important this step is in the initial consultation, both for the safety and efficacy of the treatments, so much so that if the clinic you are at does not do this, move on to a better one. It is like having orthopaedic surgery without first having an x-ray!

Taking normal ‘before’ photos is also an important part of any consultative process. I have to say, there is nothing more satisfying than getting out the ‘before’ photos for clients who have completed their treatments. They forget so easily what their skin was like, and it is a real thrill to see how far they have come.

To book a consultation with a Clear Complexions nurse click here, or, if you would like more information about what happens during a Clear Complexions Consultation click here

In the afternoon, I attended an intimate gathering at the HQ to hear Richard Parker, Rationale founder and cosmetic chemist, explain the science behind the new Rationale formulations. I was just so impressed by how this new range mimics the natural function of the skin and after trialling it for the last 3 months, I can see how the science has contributed to my skin looking and feeling better than it ever has.

Rationale new R+D facility: Richard Parker and Suzie Hoitink

The ISOTROPIC FORMULATION is the culmination of 15 years of Rationale research and development.  This ‘skin identical’ formulation ensures perfect synchronicity between active ingredient, base formulation and the skin.

What does that mean for you? Well, for those who have enjoyed the benefits of using Rationale, you are about to take your skin to another level. I have never seen skincare like it, nor have I experienced such rapid improvement in my skin. I admit; I was dubious. I loved Rationale in its present form and was not happy with the prospect of change. I am now a convert and cannot wait to get all of you, our clients, using this new innovation in skin care.

Rest assured, we will have it in the clinics the moment it is released, and you will be able to buy Rationale online at our online shop.  The range will be available mid May 2012.

Regards,

Suzie

Q. What tend to be the greatest skin concerns for those in their 40s?

If I had a dollar for every client that said, “I am turning 40 and I think it’s time I took better care of my skin”, I would be…well, you know! In truth, it would be great if we were to start taking care of our skin well before we hit the big 40. The environmental damage our skin has to cope with on a daily basis in Australia is well beyond what it is designed to manage and when we hit around 40 we start to notice the tell tale signs.

Most clients come to me concerned with pigmentation, or brown spots and marks that keep coming up on their sun-exposed skin. By now, clients have usually been protecting their skin for a few years, and yet, more and more pigment keeps surfacing; and it will continue to do so. The reason for this is best illustrated when using imaging software showing the skin below the surface. The pigmentation that surfaces at 40 years of age can be caused over 20 years ago and is slowly working its way to the surface. The damage is well and truly done.

Clients in their 40′s notice other tell tales their skin is getting a little older. There are some broken capillaries visible around the nose and on the cheeks and chin. There is a loss of volume in the cheeks and the under eye area either looks puffier or more sunken. The skin on the face, neck and chest seems thinner and to have lost it’s elasticity. And then there are those wrinkles.

Initially wrinkles are dynamic, meaning they are only visible when we move our face and form expression but as the skin loses its elasticity, these wrinkles become static, or visible at rest. Most commonly the wrinkles that bother us are between the brow (frown lines), around the eyes (crows feet) and on the forehead.

So in summary, when we hit the 40′s, most of us notice changes in the tone, texture and strength of our skin. What can we do about it? Well, that is actually the good bit of news in all this misery – there is a plethora of fantastic treatments out there. All you need to know is where to go to get the right treatment for you.

Q. What treatments and skincare regimes would you recommend for clients in their 40s?

Getting the right treatment and skincare plan can be trickier than it seems, and in fact is getting more and more complicated as new technologies and skincare keep hitting our shores. You don’t have to know all the different treatment options available; that’s our job. What you do need to do is ensure you are in a reputable clinic with qualified professionals, and the clinic has access to a wide variety of treatment options, so the right one is chosen for you, not just because it is the only one they have.

One of the more common treatments for pigmentation and capillary damage is Intense Pulsed Light (IPL). In experienced hands, IPL offers you a quick, effective solution that has little downtime, and minimal side effects. The downside though is multiple treatments may be needed and, despite manufacturers claims, it does have an ‘ouch’ factor.

Laser treatments are also effective for pigmentation and vascular damage. Of particular note are the ‘new kids on the block’, fractionated lasers. Fractionated lasers resurface the skin, removing excess pigmentation and stimulating collagen and elastin. The perfect three-in-one treatment! Fractionated lasers do have about 4-6 days downtime, but if you can manage the time off, are worth every second as they yield superior results for tired skin.

Interestingly, if the downtime is an issue, there is a new fractionated laser out called the Clear + Brilliant that is a less aggressive alternative. It is amazing for smoother, softer skin and minimizing pores. It is usually performed in a treatment course of 4-6 but even a one off treatment will freshen up your skin to no end without the need to take time off.

If you are just looking for a treatment that will gently stimulate collagen and elastin and give your skin a few years back, then LED technology is fabulous, in particular, the Omnilux. This very clever technology uses light on specific wavelengths to stimulate the collagen producing cells. It is best used in a treatment course of 10 treatments and is inexpensive, addictive and completely pain free.

Microdermabrasion and peels are still popular for mildly resurfacing the skin and are fantastic for treating congested or dull skin. Both these treatments are inexpensive, have no downtime and minimal side effects. They don’t offer dramatic results but for those of you who are looking to tread lightly and get your glow back, they are great.

Now to the question of what to do about those wrinkles; the ones that get deeper and deeper with every passing year. Well, all the treatments we have just covered will help to soften lines and slow the aging process in the skin, but for those movement wrinkles, injectables are the way to go. This issue inevitably splits the world; there are strong views on both sides. The simple truth though is that if you want to stop the wrinkle deepening, you need to stop the muscle moving, and the only way to do that is to use Botox or similar product like Dysport.

Most clients who take the plunge and try injectable treatments are completely shocked by what a non-event it is. The treatment is quick and even if you are not a fan of needles (who is!) it is not difficult to get through. There are very few side effects except for some mild bruising and redness at the injection site. It starts taking effect in 3-5 days and usually lasts for 3 months.

If volume loss is an issue for you then fillers may be the way to go. There is an enormous choice of fillers on the market, even products that not only fill the area but also stimulate collagen. An exciting new procedure that is yielding fabulous results is Platelet Rich Plasma. This involves taking a small amount of blood from the client and spinning it in a centrifuge so that the collagen-stimulating platelets are separated. This is then re-injected in the areas that need rejuvenation and is great for difficult areas to treat like under the eyes. It sounds terrifying but you are just a bit red after the procedure and it only takes about an hour. Results usually start becoming evident 2-3 months later.

By far and away, the most important change to make to improve your skin and keep it healthy when you are in your 40′s, is to what’s in your bathroom cabinet at home. As our skin ages, vital antioxidants are needed to maintain cellular function and minimize environmental damage. Vitamins C, A, E and B3 as well as Alpha and Beta hydroxy acids will make an enormous impact on your skin; one that you will actually notice. Where can you get these? Not in a department store, that’s for sure. Skincare that actively improves skin are cosmeceuticals and these are available through medical skin clinics. They may be a little difficult to access but the strength of the active ingredients means the right products need to be chosen for you. Go through this process and get it right and your skin will reward your effort every day. In terms of cost, well, you get what you pay for in this case. In general though, you won’t pay more than you are already paying for top brand cosmetics that simply don’t deliver.

Q. What should and shouldn’t clients in their 40s do to their skin?

The biggest ‘should do’ for clients in their 40′s is to protect their skin from UV damage. It is a message we hear over and over again and it is never too late to start. The sun rapidly ages our skin and the older we get, the less our skin is able to cope and protect itself. Remember your neck, chest and hands. Clients put sunscreen on their face but forget those other areas until it is too late. The skin is much thinner on the neck and chest area and requires twice as many, if not more, treatments to get the same improvements as the face.

On that note, stop spraying perfume on your neck. You know the reddish, brown marks that are appearing down the sides of your neck? It is called Poikiloderma and it’s caused by the perfume acting as a photosensitizer, accelerating damage, and is really difficult to treat. It is a good habit to get out of. Just spray it on the areas that never see the sun!

Q. What other advice can you give to those in their 40s.

The best advice I can give anyone in their 40′s is to get a really good education in their own skin. Find a clinic that can give you a thorough consultation and skin analysis that includes skin imaging. This will help you understand not only what damage is there and why, but what is likely to come up in the future and what you can do about that now to minimize or prevent that from happening. You can be so proactive nowadays about your skin. All you need is a professional, preferably with a medical background, who you trust to ‘coach’ you through the process and give you the right advice as your skin changes in the future. They are out there.

If this is striking a chord with you and you would like to come in and have a chat with a nurse, click here for our contact details.

All relevant questions.

Getting the treatment plan right can be trickier than it seems, and in fact, is getting more and more complicated as newer technologies keep hitting our shores. Quite often there are a number of ways to ‘skin a cat’, so to speak.  For example, you can treat pigmentation with Intense Pulsed Light, Lasers, Fractionated lasers and/ or peels. Acne can be treated with peels, micro dermabrasion, LED technology, Pneumatic pulsed light, and cosmecuticals.

You don’t need to know all the technologies out there! That is our job. All you need to do is ensure the clinic you are in has access to a wide variety of modalities so you will get the most appropriate technology for your skin needs. As I mentioned earlier, make sure your clinic of choice is invested in keeping up with the very latest technology. This can be hard for the consumer to assess, as every clinic claims to have the latest and greatest equipment but if you do a bit of research and ask the right questions, you will get a good sense of whether they are on the cutting edge or not.

The treatment plan your practitioner develops for you should comprise of three parts: treatments for the repair of the existing damage, a plan for the maintenance of the results of that treatment course and prevention of further damage.

For example, Mary, a lovely client of ours, had diffused redness to her cheeks; vascular damage caused in part by genetics and by sun exposure. The treatment to repair the damage was Intense Pulsed light, of which she required three treatments. If that was all we did for Mary, she would have been back in a relatively short space of time as the redness would have returned. So, to maintain that result, we implemented a treatment plan that  stimulated collagen and elastin to strengthen her compromised skin, utilizing an  LED course and Vitamin A topically. By treating Mary’s initial concern of redness in her cheeks and then giving her the tools to keep her skin in the best condition possible going forward, Mary will be able to enjoy clearer skin for longer.

To find out what treatment is right for you  click here to book a consultation with a Clear Complexion nurse.  

• frown lines
• forehead wrinkles
• crows feet
• loss of volume in face and hands
• fine wrinkles under eyes
• aged skin on face, chest and hands

Dr HERBERT HOOI
MBBS (Syd) LLB (Hons) (UWA) FACEM FACAM FACLM

Dr Hooi completed his medical degree at Sydney University in 1987. He then undertook specialist training in Emergency Medicine and was awarded Fellowship of the Australasian College for Emergency Medicine in 1999. Dr Hooi worked as a consultant in Emergency Medicine in a number of public and private hospitals in NSW and interstate as well as obtaining further experience overseas in the Middle East.

Dr Hooi became interested in cosmetic procedures in 1990 and has been performing chemical peels for over 20 years. Dr Hooi opened his first private cosmetic medical clinic in the beautiful Southern Highlands town of Bowral in 2008. His talent, keen eye and enthusiasm for his work became recognised in Sydney cosmetic medical circles and he became the principal medical provider at a number of well-regarded clinics in Sydney.
Dr Hooi is a member of the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Medicine and is an Associate Member of the American Society of Laser Surgery and Medicine. Dr Hooi’s training and experience led to his award as a Foundation Fellow of the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine in 2009.

In 2010, Dr Hooi was selected to become the national trainer for the Fibropen System, platelet rich plasma (PRP) and Radiesse.

To book your consultation with Dr Hooi click here or call 6251 8889.

Papers that she will be presenting:

• Acne: Topical Treatment Options
• Fractionated lasers: Indications, Parameters and Complications
• Hyperpigmentation: Differential Diagnosis and Treatment

Three of our key nurses will also head to Cairns with her to partake in the paramedical conference and further their skills and knowledge.

 I think I know what it is and I only realised it when the young hairdresser was picking my brains about her skin.

 We provide people with education about their skin. Not just about skin in general; about their skin. What type it is, how and why their skin is in the condition it is, what damage is there, what damage is likely to come, how can we repair that damage, how can we maintain those results, how can you prevent further damage, how their skin is likely to age from now on, what skincare suits them and what to avoid. We help them understand why their skin is the way it is and give them the right advice on what they can (or can’t) do about it, as well as what is realistic. It is a unique and highly sought after service.

 Even clients who have been elsewhere to other clinics actually know very little about their skin.

 I am treating a client at the moment who travels from Sydney to have treatment with us. She tried one of the better known clinics in Sydney and came out disappointed to say the least.  Her initial consultation was 7 minutes. She had assumed it would be with a nurse which it wasn’t. It was a skin therapist. She left none the wiser about her skin, just with a list of treatments she should have. She had no understanding of why she should have them done, what is realistic to expect and whether she would need to retreat in the future.  

 What we do everyday empowers people to make a positive change in their lives.  By helping people understand their own skin and what they can do to improve and maintain it, our nurses give them the clarity to make informed decisions. In an industry so shadowed by scepticism and mis-information, it is a refreshingly honest approach.  

 Suzie

 Most of the people I meet in my line of work have finally come to peace with the fact that it is OK to accept a little help in order to age gracefully. They are now at the stage that they want some honest, expert advice about what can be done, where to go and what is realistic to expect from treatment. 

The million dollar question, though, is where to start? Your friends talk about trying this cream and that treatment, but how do you know what worked for them is right for you? Where do you go for honest advice – a beautician, dermatologist or cosmetic/plastic surgeon?

It really does depend on your needs. If your beauty regime to date has consisted of the occasional facial, and you are now looking to just refresh your appearance, you are unlikely to need a cosmetic or plastic surgeon. Similarly, if you are to step it up a notch and have laser resurfacing , going for the  cheapest option may not be the wisest choice.

What you are looking for is the right ‘fit’ for you; what you feel comfortable with. Many of us would never feel comfortable seeing a plastic surgeon because we only want to freshen our appearance and don’t see ourselves as a cosmetic patient. But if you have dabbled a bit in the cosmetic arena and are looking something more, a cosmetic or plastic surgeon is for you.

Laser clinics seem to be popping up everywhere and I get asked all the time if they are ok to go to. Some are, some aren’t. Most laser clinics are staffed by beauticians who have undergone training in the use of light based therapies, and are often referred to as Dermal Therapists or Dermal Technicians. Many laser clinics are chains that have flooded the market, so be wary, and do your homework before launching in and having anything done.

Once you have some idea of what type of professional you are looking for to guide you, you now have to find a good one; someone you can trust.

Look for a clinic/surgery that has a clear commitment to ‘best practice’. What does that mean? It is your assurance that you will be treated with respect, your expectations will be met, if not exceeded and your overall experience will be meaningful and enriching. Sounds too good to be true? Well, they are out there; you just have to know what it is you are looking for.

Look for a clinic that has a clear leader, a real person.  The clinic may have a business name but there is an identifiable person behind that. Why is that important? Because if someone is happy to stake their professional and personal reputation on the quality of the service they offer, then that is a fantastic indication to you that you are in the right place.

I front all the advertising and marketing for our clinics and not because I like seeing my face everywhere. Believe me, I don’t. I do it because I want clients to know that I am responsible for their experience with our clinics, and for the results we achieve for them. It is rare to find people in any business willing to stick their neck out like that, especially so in this industry, so if you find one, you are onto something.

Find a clinic with a culture that you feel comfortable with. So many surgeries and practices still engage in the typical doctor-patient model where you, as the patient, are vulnerable and disempowered. You are told what your ‘problem areas’ are, what you are going have done about them and when. I strongly believe this doesn’t constitute ‘best practice’ and isn’t conducive to achieving a long, collaborative and supportive relationship that ultimately leads to the best outcomes for you, the client. 

We have a wellness model in the clinics, not sickness one. What I mean by that is that you are a client, rather than a patient. You have made a conscious decision to use our service that is driven by want and not need. You are a paying consumer and because of that, are in the ‘box seat’.  You are in a position of power in the relationship and it is how it should be.

Our clinics are modelled on the culture of collaboration and empowerment. We work with you, not on you. It is about building rapport and establishing a relationship based on respect. Our nurses have a deep seeded desire to get you the results you are after and take that responsibility seriously. This all sounds a little airy fairy but, in this day and age, we emotionally disconnect from people, to all of our detriment. There are few experiences more revealing than talking about your appearance and how it makes you feel. You need to be in a place of complete trust.

Call the clinic and ask some questions to get a ‘feel’ for the place. In a reputable clinic, the customer service should be impeccable. By and large, we are pretty bad at this in Australia, especially in the medical field. There is still that view that you, as the client/patient are just lucky the doctor/practitioner is willing to see you, let alone give you great customer service. It is getting old. 

I am a customer service junkie. I expect great service wherever I go and am disappointed when it falls short. When choosing a clinic or practice that you will be entrusting your face to, friendly, informative service is a great indicator as to whether you can move to the next step of spending time having a consultation with them. Because let’s face it, our time is precious.

Find a clinic that is clearly still engaged in the industry, where the staff attend conferences, and are constantly up skilling. Definitely look for a clinic that keeps abreast of emerging technologies and is willing to bring them into the clinic. Technology moves so quickly in this industry, it is exciting, and you want to be along for the ride!

Lastly, lets talk about price. Price is a spectrum and where you fit in that spectrum will also dictate who you select as your practitioner. While expensive does not always guarantee the best results, going cheap is a gamble I would never recommend.  Avoid the discount coupons like the plague. Discounted price means discounted service. Come on, we are talking about your face! There is middle ground here, where quality service meets reasonable price.

For more information, or to book a consultation, click here.

The cosmetic industry has gained such momentum in a short period of time that it is rare to come across someone who hasn’t engaged in laser or IPL treatment, permanent hair reduction being the most common. This explosion in popularity has led to the industry being diluted by ‘cowboy’ operators, aided by poor regulation and the promise of a quick buck. In many states in Australia, if you can afford a laser, you have met the criteria to use it! You are not required to have any education or qualifications behind you.  It is a scary scenario. 

There are fantastic practitioners out there that put your safety first and will deliver you wonderful results. This is a fast evolving industry and offers the consumer an enormous selection of treatments. My advice to you though is, do your homework and select a practitioner with medical qualifications and experience.  After all, these are medical procedures, and like all medical procedures, they have risks.

If you want some advice on where is the best place to go in your area, you can contact me directly on suzie@clearcomplexions.com.au and I can give you some tips on selecting the right clinic for you.

For more information or to book a consultation, click here.

Launched by Solta Medical, the company that developed Fraxel , the Clear + Brilliant is a gentle, fractionated laser that refreshes your skin with minimal discomfort and downtime. Now listed on the Therapeutics Register, the Clear + Brilliant is designed to fill the space between a microdermabrasion and the more aggressive treatments, it is perfect for those who want to refresh their skin, or for those who are looking to prevent the signs of aging (or both!!).

Clear + Brilliant is designed for all skin types, colour and age, even clients in their 20’s.  You will see results immediately as well as notice improvements as time goes on.  This can even be used to refresh and revitalize your skin a few days before a big event.

 With Clear & Brilliant you will see:

• Visible improvement in the tone of your skin and pore size
• Refreshed, softer and smoother skin
• A natural radiance and glow

Clear + Brilliant is comfortable, safe, and quick (treatment takes about 45mins), but the best part is that the downtime is limited to redness on the day of treatment and slightly dry skin for a day or two.

Longer lasting results are seen after 3-4 treatments as the skin gets better and better. It is truly addictive and, with little to no downtime, perfect for those with busy schedules!